tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16270588876102189262024-02-19T03:40:18.754-08:00Bloomin' News Color Burst Landscapes Bloomin' Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04163913840464530590noreply@blogger.comBlogger14125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1627058887610218926.post-37672301356275300932019-08-02T09:47:00.000-07:002019-08-02T09:47:29.496-07:00August in the Garden To Do List<div class="comp mntl-sc-block mntl-sc-block-html" id="mntl-sc-block_1-0" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; counter-reset: section 0; font-family: "Work Sans", Arial, sans-serif; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Article courtesy of <a href="http://www.thespruce.com/">www.thespruce.com</a></span></div>
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August gardening chores can be a mixed bag. For many gardeners, the month of August begins the downhill slide into off season. Warm climate gardeners have a second chance, but some don't have a second wind after summer's heat. By all means, take some time to simply enjoy your garden and all the hard work you've put into it. But August weather is often milder than we expect and it's a great time to perk things up in the garden, after July's extremes.</div>
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Your garden plants are hardier than you think and there are plenty of gardening tasks for August that will keep your flower and vegetable gardens going longer, as well as opportunities to get a head start on next year's garden plans.</div>
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<span class="mntl-sc-block-heading__text" style="box-sizing: border-box;">Garden To-Do List for the Sultry Month of August</span></h3>
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<li>*Seed a fall crop of <a data-component="link" data-ordinal="1" data-source="inlineLink" data-type="internalLink" href="https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-grow-organic-peas-2540010" style="background-image: linear-gradient(to right, rgb(0, 143, 185) 0px, rgb(0, 143, 185) 100%); background-position: 0px 97%; background-repeat: repeat-x; background-size: 100% 1px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #008fb9; text-decoration-line: none; transition: background-image 0.25s ease 0s, color 0.25s ease 0s;">peas</a> and <a data-component="link" data-ordinal="2" data-source="inlineLink" data-type="internalLink" href="https://www.thespruce.com/growing-spinach-1403448" style="background-image: linear-gradient(to right, rgb(0, 143, 185) 0px, rgb(0, 143, 185) 100%); background-position: 0px 97%; background-repeat: repeat-x; background-size: 100% 1px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #008fb9; text-decoration-line: none; transition: background-image 0.25s ease 0s, color 0.25s ease 0s;">spinach</a> and keep <a data-component="link" data-ordinal="3" data-source="inlineLink" data-type="internalLink" href="https://www.thespruce.com/when-to-harvest-vegetables-1403402" style="background-image: linear-gradient(to right, rgb(0, 143, 185) 0px, rgb(0, 143, 185) 100%); background-position: 0px 97%; background-repeat: repeat-x; background-size: 100% 1px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #008fb9; text-decoration-line: none; transition: background-image 0.25s ease 0s, color 0.25s ease 0s;">harvesting</a>. Many flowers and vegetables will revive and continue producing if you regularly harvest the vegetables while they are young and tender and deadhead spent flowers.</li>
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<br />*Pick herbs for fresh use and <a data-component="link" data-ordinal="4" data-source="inlineLink" data-type="internalLink" href="https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-dry-and-store-herbs-1403397" style="background-image: linear-gradient(to right, rgb(0, 143, 185) 0px, rgb(0, 143, 185) 100%); background-position: 0px 97%; background-repeat: repeat-x; background-size: 100% 1px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #008fb9; text-decoration-line: none; transition: background-image 0.25s ease 0s, color 0.25s ease 0s;">for drying</a>. Most herbs have a more concentrated flavor if they are not allowed to flower and frequent harvesting will accomplish that. Harvesting will encourage them to send out fresh, new growth and keep them growing longer.<br /><br />*Order <a data-component="link" data-ordinal="5" data-source="inlineLink" data-type="internalLink" href="https://www.thespruce.com/spring-blooming-bulbs-1402261" style="background-image: linear-gradient(to right, rgb(0, 143, 185) 0px, rgb(0, 143, 185) 100%); background-position: 0px 97%; background-repeat: repeat-x; background-size: 100% 1px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #008fb9; text-decoration-line: none; transition: background-image 0.25s ease 0s, color 0.25s ease 0s;">spring bulbs</a> for planting and <a data-component="link" data-ordinal="6" data-source="inlineLink" data-type="internalLink" href="https://www.thespruce.com/forcing-flowering-bulbs-for-winter-color-1402178" style="background-image: linear-gradient(to right, rgb(0, 143, 185) 0px, rgb(0, 143, 185) 100%); background-position: 0px 97%; background-repeat: repeat-x; background-size: 100% 1px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #008fb9; text-decoration-line: none; transition: background-image 0.25s ease 0s, color 0.25s ease 0s;">forcing</a>. You won't be able to plant them until later in the fall, but you will get the best selection if you order early.<br /></div>
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*Check that your <a data-component="link" data-ordinal="7" data-source="inlineLink" data-type="internalLink" href="https://www.thespruce.com/what-is-mulch-1402413" style="background-image: linear-gradient(to right, rgb(0, 143, 185) 0px, rgb(0, 143, 185) 100%); background-position: 0px 97%; background-repeat: repeat-x; background-size: 100% 1px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #008fb9; text-decoration-line: none; transition: background-image 0.25s ease 0s, color 0.25s ease 0s;">mulch</a> hasn't decomposed and add more as needed. While organic mulches are meant to continue decomposing on your garden beds and help feed the soil, you do not want to leave your soil uncovered at the end of the season. Bare soil is an invitation for weed seeds.<br /><br />*Spread a mid-season layer of <a data-component="link" data-ordinal="8" data-source="inlineLink" data-type="internalLink" href="https://www.thespruce.com/compost-black-gold-for-your-garden-soil-1403130" style="background-image: linear-gradient(to right, rgb(0, 143, 185) 0px, rgb(0, 143, 185) 100%); background-position: 0px 97%; background-repeat: repeat-x; background-size: 100% 1px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #008fb9; text-decoration-line: none; transition: background-image 0.25s ease 0s, color 0.25s ease 0s;">compost</a> or manure. Your plants will appreciate the extra boost to get them through the final growing months and your soil will need some amendments, too</div>
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<br />*Leave some <a data-component="link" data-ordinal="9" data-source="inlineLink" data-type="internalLink" href="https://www.thespruce.com/best-self-sowing-annual-flowers-4145063" style="background-image: linear-gradient(to right, rgb(0, 143, 185) 0px, rgb(0, 143, 185) 100%); background-position: 0px 97%; background-repeat: repeat-x; background-size: 100% 1px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #008fb9; text-decoration-line: none; transition: background-image 0.25s ease 0s, color 0.25s ease 0s;">annual seeds to self-sow</a>. Many annual flowers, like <a data-component="link" data-ordinal="10" data-source="inlineLink" data-type="internalLink" href="https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-grow-cosmos-4125538" style="background-image: linear-gradient(to right, rgb(0, 143, 185) 0px, rgb(0, 143, 185) 100%); background-position: 0px 97%; background-repeat: repeat-x; background-size: 100% 1px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #008fb9; text-decoration-line: none; transition: background-image 0.25s ease 0s, color 0.25s ease 0s;">cosmos</a>, <a data-component="link" data-ordinal="11" data-source="inlineLink" data-type="internalLink" href="https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-grow-nigella-damascena-1402911" style="background-image: linear-gradient(to right, rgb(0, 143, 185) 0px, rgb(0, 143, 185) 100%); background-position: 0px 97%; background-repeat: repeat-x; background-size: 100% 1px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #008fb9; text-decoration-line: none; transition: background-image 0.25s ease 0s, color 0.25s ease 0s;">nigella</a>, and <a data-component="link" data-ordinal="12" data-source="inlineLink" data-type="internalLink" href="https://www.thespruce.com/cleome-flower-spider-1315709" style="background-image: linear-gradient(to right, rgb(0, 143, 185) 0px, rgb(0, 143, 185) 100%); background-position: 0px 97%; background-repeat: repeat-x; background-size: 100% 1px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #008fb9; text-decoration-line: none; transition: background-image 0.25s ease 0s, color 0.25s ease 0s;">cleome,</a> will seed themselves throughout your garden. You'll be delighted next season with an abundant, natural scattering of flowers. Don't worry, any that seed in unwanted places will be easy to pull out early in the season.<br /><br />*Start saving seeds and <a data-component="link" data-ordinal="13" data-source="inlineLink" data-type="internalLink" href="https://www.thespruce.com/make-more-plants-with-cuttings-1402474" style="background-image: linear-gradient(to right, rgb(0, 143, 185) 0px, rgb(0, 143, 185) 100%); background-position: 0px 97%; background-repeat: repeat-x; background-size: 100% 1px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #008fb9; text-decoration-line: none; transition: background-image 0.25s ease 0s, color 0.25s ease 0s;">taking cuttings</a>. Focus on your top performers and sentimental favorites, so you will have them to grow again next year.<br /><br />*Remove any diseased foliage now, so it doesn't get lost in the fall leaves. Dispose of diseased plants in the garbage or burn them. Don't put them in the compost pile unless you are absolutely sure it will get hot enough to kill any lingering spores.<br /><br />*Cut back the foliage of early bloomers like <a data-component="link" data-ordinal="14" data-source="inlineLink" data-type="internalLink" href="https://www.thespruce.com/growing-brunnera-1402835" style="background-image: linear-gradient(to right, rgb(0, 143, 185) 0px, rgb(0, 143, 185) 100%); background-position: 0px 97%; background-repeat: repeat-x; background-size: 100% 1px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #008fb9; text-decoration-line: none; transition: background-image 0.25s ease 0s, color 0.25s ease 0s;">Brunnera</a> and hardy <a data-component="link" data-ordinal="15" data-source="inlineLink" data-type="internalLink" href="https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-grow-true-perennial-geraniums-1402842" style="background-image: linear-gradient(to right, rgb(0, 143, 185) 0px, rgb(0, 143, 185) 100%); background-position: 0px 97%; background-repeat: repeat-x; background-size: 100% 1px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #008fb9; text-decoration-line: none; transition: background-image 0.25s ease 0s, color 0.25s ease 0s;">geraniums</a>, to revitalize the plants. They are probably looking a bit tired and removing the older leaves will encourage fresh new growth.<br /><br />*Prune summer flowering shrubs as the flowers fade. This will help put the energy back into the leaves and roots of the plant, rather than into setting seed.</div>
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<br />*Trim and feed hanging baskets to prolong their beauty. Sometimes we take hanging baskets for granted since they tend to be planted with profuse bloomers. However, they will need some TLC after working so hard setting flowers all summer.<br /><br />*Take pictures of your garden at peak. Take pictures of container combinations you'd like to repeat. This will give you reminders next season of what worked and which areas of your garden need some tweaking.<br /><br />*Make sure the cold frame is ready to go. Whether you plan to overwinter some tender plants in it or you won't need it until the early spring, you will want it set up and in place before the ground is suddenly covered in snow.<br /><br />*Begin <a data-component="link" data-ordinal="16" data-source="inlineLink" data-type="internalLink" href="https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-divide-perennial-plants-1402802" style="background-image: linear-gradient(to right, rgb(0, 143, 185) 0px, rgb(0, 143, 185) 100%); background-position: 0px 97%; background-repeat: repeat-x; background-size: 100% 1px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #008fb9; text-decoration-line: none; transition: background-image 0.25s ease 0s, color 0.25s ease 0s;">dividing perennials</a>. Start with the <a data-component="link" data-ordinal="17" data-source="inlineLink" data-type="internalLink" href="https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-divide-and-care-for-bearded-iris-1402801" style="background-image: linear-gradient(to right, rgb(0, 143, 185) 0px, rgb(0, 143, 185) 100%); background-position: 0px 97%; background-repeat: repeat-x; background-size: 100% 1px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #008fb9; text-decoration-line: none; transition: background-image 0.25s ease 0s, color 0.25s ease 0s;">bearded iris</a>. You will want to get your perennial divisions in the ground at least a couple of months before the ground freezes, so they will have time to set down roots.<br /><br />*Pot up perennial divisions for spring plant swaps. Sink the pots into the ground this fall and they'll be one less chore in the spring. (An empty spot in the vegetable garden is perfect for this. By the time you're ready to plant vegetables next spring, it will be time to lift the pots.)</div>
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<br />*Plant trees, shrubs, and perennials now, so they can take root. Keep them well watered, until the ground freezes, since they have a limited root system.<br /><br />*Get your fall-blooming <a data-component="link" data-ordinal="18" data-source="inlineLink" data-type="internalLink" href="https://www.thespruce.com/planting-and-caring-for-crocus-1402246" style="background-image: linear-gradient(to right, rgb(0, 143, 185) 0px, rgb(0, 143, 185) 100%); background-position: 0px 97%; background-repeat: repeat-x; background-size: 100% 1px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #008fb9; text-decoration-line: none; transition: background-image 0.25s ease 0s, color 0.25s ease 0s;">crocus</a> and colchicum planted so they'll bloom on time. They bloom in the fall, but they need to be in the ground several weeks earlier.</div>
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Color Burst Landscapes Bloomin' Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04163913840464530590noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1627058887610218926.post-65791444305366187292019-05-09T10:53:00.000-07:002019-05-09T10:53:58.005-07:00Cause of Root Rot: Root Rot Remedy for Garden Plants, Trees and Shrubs<i><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Article Courtesy of Gardening Know How; By Jackie Carroll</b></span></i><br />
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While many people have both heard of and dealt with root rot in houseplants, most are not aware that this disease can also have an adverse effect on garden plants outdoors, including shrubs and trees. Learning more about the cause of root rot and how to look for early signs of root rot in garden plants will go a long way in its treatment. For root rot prevention and treatment info, keep reading.<br />
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<b>What is Root Rot?</b></h3>
Root rot is a disease that attacks the roots of plants growing in wet soil. Since the disease spreads through the soil, the only root rot remedy for garden plants is often to remove and destroy the plant. However, you can try these corrective measures if you want to attempt to save a particularly valuable plant: Keep the soil as dry as possible. Don’t irrigate the plant unless the soil is almost completely dry. Pull back the soil to allow moisture to evaporate from the soil. The cause of root rot is a fungus. Species of the Pythium, Phytophthora, Rhizoctonia, or Fusarium fungi are the usual culprits. These fungi thrive in wet soil, and you can transfer them from one part of the garden to another when you transplant ailing plants.<br />
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<h3>
Identifying Root Rot </h3>
When it comes to identifying root rot, look at the plants. Plants with root rot can’t absorb moisture and nourishment from the soil properly. The plants often resemble those suffering from drought and stress and mineral deficiencies. Signs of root rot in garden plants include stunting, wilting and discolored leaves. Foliage and shoots die back and the entire plant soon dies. If you pull up a plant with root rot, you will see that the roots are brown and soft instead of firm and white. Trees with root rot develop cankers, ooze reddish or black sap, and sometimes develop dark vertical streaks.<br />
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<h3>
Treatment for Root Rot </h3>
The best root rot remedy for garden plants is prevention. Prevent root rot by filling in low parts of the garden and improving the soil with organic matter so that it drains freely. If you can’t improve the drainage, use raised beds where the where plant roots sit above the soil. Taking care not to overwater garden plants will also help. There are chemical fungicides and biological agents labeled as treatment for root rot disease; however, you should not use these products unless you know which fungus is causing the problem. Contact your local agricultural extension agent for information about how to have the fungus identified. Once you know which fungus you are treating, your agricultural extension agent can recommend a product to treat that specific fungus. Fungicides are toxic chemicals that should be used with caution. Read the label and follow the instructions exactly. Store them in their original container and out of the reach of children. Even when all of the precautions are taken in the garden, root rot may still occasionally become an issue. However, if you pay attention to the signs of root rot in garden plants, you’ll have a better chance of saving your plants.<br />
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<i>Read more at Gardening Know How: Cause Of Root Rot: Root Rot Remedy For Garden Plants, Trees, And Shrubs https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/disease/root-rot-in-garden-plants.htm</i> Color Burst Landscapes Bloomin' Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04163913840464530590noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1627058887610218926.post-72316771247566902822019-04-24T09:32:00.000-07:002019-04-24T09:33:09.589-07:00Caring for Spring Flower Bulbs After They Bloom<span style="color: #444444;"><b><i>Article Courtesy of Longfield Gardens </i></b></span><a href="https://www.longfield-gardens.com/">https://www.longfield-gardens.com</a><br />
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<span style="color: #444444;">Flower bulbs get the gardening season off to an early start. From the first crocuses and daffodils to the last tulips and alliums, it’s a show that can last from March through May. As spring eventually turns to summer, gardeners often wonder what to do about the spent flowers and fading foliage from these spring-blooming bulbs. To answer that question, you need to know if the bulbs will be treated as annuals or perennials.</span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span><u><span style="color: #444444;"><b>Spring Bulbs as Annuals</b></span></u><br />
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<u><span style="color: #444444;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7fBiBdFkHj4Vx5us0eZhTP6T5zhGZaMg9PznTKCqcWxfuAS4tvPl53mHSiItSbRsjWH3yQSIYJXqLNAt2MAncYzmID26vpqBTtR91YCkXM-xI-1G_zjQD071Tco382-xIq8Lg14ohtUg/s1600/b1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="610" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7fBiBdFkHj4Vx5us0eZhTP6T5zhGZaMg9PznTKCqcWxfuAS4tvPl53mHSiItSbRsjWH3yQSIYJXqLNAt2MAncYzmID26vpqBTtR91YCkXM-xI-1G_zjQD071Tco382-xIq8Lg14ohtUg/s320/b1.jpg" width="262" /></a></b></span></u></div>
<span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span><span style="color: #444444;">Many spring-blooming bulbs return to bloom year after year. But not all of them behave this way.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444;">Tulips and hyacinths, for example, always look their best the first spring after planting. In future years, you typically get fewer flowers that are also smaller in size. To ensure a good show of color every spring, it’s best to plant fresh bulbs each fall. </span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span><span style="color: #444444;">If you are treating your spring bulbs as annuals, you should dig them up after they finish blooming. Use a garden fork to gently lift the bulbs out of the ground and then put them in your compost pile. Removing the bulbs as well as the foliage will help minimize problems with fusarium, a common fungal disease that can affect flower bulbs.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444;">Growing spring-blooming bulbs as annuals does have some advantages. It guarantees you will always have a wonderful display of flowers. You also get the fun of putting together new color and texture combination each year.</span><span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span><span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span><u><span style="color: #444444;"><b>Spring Bulbs as Perennials</b></span></u><br />
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<u><span style="color: #444444;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoR3nr4QHptWoFThaV19tpJV0Tr-nZBZQXaDdM-HW4Jm9d5ZXmNdKLIMn3Dof6Eq49kiheb4QVy1-I1nMItDlQIbGHST0oz9Ni_4t7LaShLgDLprpRw7mFyjs7kFhQ4vEZ_pmnFWuPH4U/s1600/b2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="333" data-original-width="500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoR3nr4QHptWoFThaV19tpJV0Tr-nZBZQXaDdM-HW4Jm9d5ZXmNdKLIMn3Dof6Eq49kiheb4QVy1-I1nMItDlQIbGHST0oz9Ni_4t7LaShLgDLprpRw7mFyjs7kFhQ4vEZ_pmnFWuPH4U/s320/b2.jpg" width="320" /></a></b></span></u></div>
<span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span><span style="color: #444444;">Early-blooming bulbs such as snowdrops, crocus, chionodoxa, scilla and daffodils will flower year after year and multiply over time. These bulbs are reliably perennial and incredibly carefree. There’s no need to deadhead, fertilize or divide them unless they become overcrowded or you want to add them to other parts of your yard.</span><span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span><span style="color: #444444;">Hyacinths will usually bloom for several years, though the size of the flowers tends to gradually decline. Muscari and alliums will also return to bloom again if the soil is well-drained and stays relatively dry during summer and winter.</span><span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span><span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span><span style="color: #444444;">Tulips may bloom for several years if the soil conditions are ideal. Like muscari and alliums, they require loose, well-drained soil that gets hot and dry in the summer and stays cold and relatively dry in the winter.</span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span><span style="color: #444444;">When tulips are planted in heavy soil that holds too much moisture, the bulbs have a tendency to split. If you have ever dug up a tulip bulb after it has bloomed, you may have seen this yourself. Once a tulip bulb has split into two or more sections, it no longer has enough energy to produce a full-size blossom. Some types of tulips are less prone to splitting and more likely to rebloom. These include most species tulips, Darwin hybrids, emperor tulips and some triumph tulips.</span><span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span><span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span><span style="color: #444444;"><u><b>Removing Spent Flowers</b></u></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444;"><u><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC0biC4rvtxVKZ_VIyJQ-0AgDXAQbjNthyDW0DwD-QSykFt49FWuGDx7Lxgy0UivKoXMwsvBOlh0Oj4PrZvjt5XDi5IvodlVKYgIyjW6Py0LwzbXQ4_QrzPnblpQBeYWdyM0TVFV1Tq-U/s1600/b4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="333" data-original-width="500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC0biC4rvtxVKZ_VIyJQ-0AgDXAQbjNthyDW0DwD-QSykFt49FWuGDx7Lxgy0UivKoXMwsvBOlh0Oj4PrZvjt5XDi5IvodlVKYgIyjW6Py0LwzbXQ4_QrzPnblpQBeYWdyM0TVFV1Tq-U/s320/b4.jpg" width="320" /></a></b></u></span></div>
<span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span><span style="color: #444444;">Smaller bulbs, such as crocus, muscari, scilla and snowdrops, multiply by seed as well as by bulb offsets. To encourage naturalizing, it’s best to leave the flowers attached so the seeds can ripen.</span><span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span><span style="color: #444444;">If you are growing tulips and trying to get them to rebloom, snip off the flowers right after they fade. With daffodils, the flowers may be removed for aesthetic reasons, but there's no other downside to leaving them on. The seed heads of alliums can be almost as attractive as the flowers, so you may want to leave them in place. Removing them doesn’t seem to affect the performance of the bulbs one way or another. Some alliums, including Purple Sensation, will self-sow. If you don’t want seedlings, you should remove the flower heads.</span><span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span><span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span><span style="color: #444444;"><u><b>Hiding or Removing Bulb Foliage</b></u></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444;"><u><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTSnyKDsf4ZFDSVIZJsjAV25KzW67zLMmSTDap_rDw9QnIWXFzpbErtuBytLx3bytPX2XQ6OqCeWWeJ0sDjkuBwH-KPOtfQhgsbMwjRJzy-VN5jPMHfvg7QBg4OSgmGAtvGcbBcvZmCUw/s1600/b6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="333" data-original-width="500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTSnyKDsf4ZFDSVIZJsjAV25KzW67zLMmSTDap_rDw9QnIWXFzpbErtuBytLx3bytPX2XQ6OqCeWWeJ0sDjkuBwH-KPOtfQhgsbMwjRJzy-VN5jPMHfvg7QBg4OSgmGAtvGcbBcvZmCUw/s320/b6.jpg" width="320" /></a></b></u></span></div>
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</b></u></span><span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span><span style="color: #444444;">Bulbs use their foliage to produce the energy they need to form new flowers. So, if you want your bulbs to rebloom, it’s important to leave the foliage in place until it has withered and turned yellow. When the foliage can be pulled away from the bulb with a gentle tug, it’s ready to go.</span><span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span><span style="color: #444444;">The foliage of early-blooming bulbs such as chionodoxa and scilla fades away very quickly. Larger bulbs take longer; a few weeks or a few months, depending on the weather and the type of bulb. There are several ways to cope with ripening foliage.</span><span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span><span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span><span style="color: #444444;">In perennial gardens, you can let the foliage of other plants hide the leaves. Hostas, daylilies, nepeta and perennial geraniums are a few of the perennials that are good at covering the spent foliage of tulips, daffodils and alliums. Click here for some recommended bulb and perennial pairings based on field tests at Cornell University.</span><br />
<span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span><span style="color: #444444;">Another option is to plant your bulbs in a dedicated area where you won’t mind seeing the foliage. For tulips and hyacinths, this could be in a cutting garden or even part of your vegetable garden. Alliums and daffodils are ideal for wilder areas where their ripening foliage will be out of sight. It's also possible to dig up your spring bulbs immediately after they finish flowering and replant them – with their foliage still attached – in a holding bed. When fall comes, dig up the bulbs and move them back. </span><span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span> Color Burst Landscapes Bloomin' Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04163913840464530590noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1627058887610218926.post-10486836576367477452019-03-25T10:30:00.002-07:002019-03-25T10:30:57.583-07:00Help!!!!My Daylilies Stopped Blooming!!!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq18c1Z8OgxKjIxdCIpZKjrYcfMqkHZE9oo69CTCZ9R6gfPi2YsxzkIcBVnylmo4KqREpYCqe5STQTzY3qm_r7jB4L7eUQ9H6zLenM1NorO3Jjz1EhCRDXkZ1ItJE0f5YCsJYteMLqc1o/s1600/20160726a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="540" data-original-width="720" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq18c1Z8OgxKjIxdCIpZKjrYcfMqkHZE9oo69CTCZ9R6gfPi2YsxzkIcBVnylmo4KqREpYCqe5STQTzY3qm_r7jB4L7eUQ9H6zLenM1NorO3Jjz1EhCRDXkZ1ItJE0f5YCsJYteMLqc1o/s400/20160726a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Most daylilies (<em style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-weight: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Hemerocallis </em>cvs) bloom year after year without your having to do much of anything: they are very reliable and very permanent plants. But some varieties, even though they are treated the same way and grow under the same conditions, bloom less after they have been in the ground 5 or 6 years. They may stop blooming entirely. The very popular ‘Stella de Oro’ daylily – the mostly widely sold daylily in the world – belongs to this category. After a number of years, it just doesn’t bloom the way it used to. What’s wrong?</div>
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<span style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: 700; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Competing With Itself</span></div>
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If a daylily is no longer blooming well yet others around it are still going strong, the problem most likely has nothing to do with fertilizing, watering, exposure, or other cultural factors, but rather results from overcrowding. And not overcrowding caused by other plants (most daylilies can hold their own in that department!), but with itself. It has produced so many offshoots that there is now a profusion of plants that share the same space, each competing with its neighbors for light and minerals. This intense competition reduces or eliminates flowering. It’s as simple as that.</div>
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<span style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: 700; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Time to Divide</span></div>
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And the solution is just as simple: divide the plant. Maybe not when you notice the problem, in midsummer, but either in the fall (at least one month before the first frost) or the spring, when new shoots start to appear. That’s because daylilies respond better to division when they are more or less dormant. (And in the fall, even though they still have leaves, the average daylily is pretty much asleep.)</div>
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That said, you <em style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-weight: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">can</em> divide a daylily in summer if you really want to, but it’s more of a shock to the plant and it’s therefore extra important to water regularly to help it make a complete recovery.</div>
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<span style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: 700; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Daylily Division</span></div>
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Dividing a daylily is pretty basic.</div>
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Dividing a daylily in the fall: you can cut the foliage back if you prefer.</div>
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Start by just digging up the entire plant with a spade, taking the biggest root ball possible. If you do it late in the season (late August, September), you can shear the foliage to 8 inches (20 cm) high before starting so you can better see what you’re doing… if you want to (shearing is not absolutely necessary).</div>
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Slice through the plant with the spade to cut it into 2, 3, 4 or more sections. Each section must have at least one healthy fan; preferably 3 or more. Now replant each section without burying the crown (the junction between the roots and the stem)… in other words, plant it with its leaves at the same level as they were before the division.</div>
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After the division, water well and apply a mulch. The plant will need additional watering in case of drought until it is well established and that can take a full year.</div>
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If you end up with too many plants, no problem: they make great gifts for friends and neighbors!</div>
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Once replanted, your divided daylily will likely flower at least modestly its first season and heavily from then on. And after 5 or 6 years, since it is one of <em style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-weight: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">those </em>daylilies, it will be time to repeat the process!</div>
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<span style="color: #656565; font-family: Montserrat, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; font-weight: inherit;"><i>Article Courtesy of Larry Hodgson-The Laidback Gardener </i></span><span style="background-color: transparent;"><span style="color: #656565; font-family: Montserrat, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><i>https://laidbackgardener.blog/</i></span></span></div>
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Color Burst Landscapes Bloomin' Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04163913840464530590noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1627058887610218926.post-3446152404340207442019-03-11T09:38:00.001-07:002019-03-11T09:44:05.038-07:00Early Detection of Rose Rosette Disease<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Article Courtesy of:</i></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Alan Windham, Professor and UT Extension Specialist<br />Mark Windham, Distinguished Professor<br />Frank Hale, Professor and UT Extension Specialist
Department of Entomology and Plant Pathology</i></span><br />
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Rose rosette is a serious virus disease of roses. It is spread
primarily by a microscopic mite. Successful management of rose
rosette disease (RRD) involves early detection of symptoms.<br />
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<b><span style="color: #cc0000;">EARLY SYMPTOMS OF RRD INCLUDE</span></b>:</h4>
a. Hyper (excessive) thorniness.
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b. Distorted flower buds.
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c. Affected tissues may be red, but they are sometimes green.
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d. Strapped (thin) leaves.
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e. Thickened stems.<br />
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<b><span style="color: #cc0000;">YOU MUST ACT QUICKLY TO MINIMIZE IMPACT OF RRD:</span> </b></div>
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<span style="font-weight: normal;">f. Plants should be inspected at one- to two-week intervals for symptoms during the growing season.<br />g. Do not wait until the plant has multiple symptomatic shoots or a rosette before digging, removing and bagging the plant. Delayed action could jeopardize other roses in your garden as the microscopic mites* that vector RRD are more numerous on symptomatic tissue. </span></h4>
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<span style="text-align: left;"> </span><i style="font-size: small; text-align: right;">*Eriophyid mite courtesy: Gary Bauchan, USDA-ARS</i><br />
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"><b>WHAT CAN BE CONFUSED WITH RRD SYMPTOMS?</b></span></div>
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h. Herbicide damage may appear as strapped, bunched or
dwarfed leaves but not as swollen canes or hyper-thorniness.</div>
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i. Shoots damaged by chili thrips may have dwarfed, distorted
leaves. Leaves may become blackened as they mature. </div>
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j. Fasciation of stems has not been associated with RRD.
Fasciation may be found in many herbaceous and woody plant
species. It is the result of several flattened stems growing
together. The cause of fasciation is unknown. </div>
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<b><span style="color: #cc0000;">ACTIONS IF RRD IS SUSPECTED:</span></b>
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• If multiple symptoms are present, even one shoot, remove the
plant; losing one plant is preferable to losing the rose garden.
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• Send a sample of live, symptomatic foliage to your Extension
office for positive confirmation. This will aid you with future
diagnoses.
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• For more information on rose diseases, see A Guide to Rose
Diseases and their Management at rose.org.</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span> Color Burst Landscapes Bloomin' Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04163913840464530590noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1627058887610218926.post-40153690981059930212018-03-26T09:33:00.001-07:002018-03-26T09:33:16.545-07:00April Gardening Tips from UT Institute of Agriculture<div class="MsoNormal ms-rteThemeFontFace-1 ms-rteFontSize-2" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); font-family: verdana; font-size: 10pt;">
<span class="ms-rtethemefontface-1"><span style="line-height: 14.2667px;">April is the month for gardeners. All the world seems to be in bloom and gardening enthusiasts are just waiting for assurances that the last frost for the spring has passed. For much of the state April 15 is the “safe date” but estimates are available from the National Weather Service for specific locations.</span></span></div>
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<span class="ms-rtethemefontface-1"><span style="line-height: 14.2667px;">Jason Reeves, curator of the University of Tennessee Gardens, Jackson, offers these tips for coordinating a few of your outdoor efforts as you struggle to install landscape plants and gardens:</span></span></div>
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· <span style="line-height: 14.2667px;">Tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, okra, basil, sweet potatoes pumpkin and gourds resent cool temperatures, so despite your enthusiasm, wait until night temps are consistently above 50 degrees F to plants. Wait also for the ornamentals vinca, lantana, ornamental sweet potatoes and caladiums.</span><span style="line-height: 14.2667px;"></span></div>
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· Prune spring-flowering shrubs (azaleas, flowering quince, Forsythia and Loropetalum) soon after they finish flowering, but only if they need it. Selectively cut old or unruly branches by reaching deeply into the shrub leaving no visible stub, making the cut just above a joint. This pruning method will keep them from looking like meatballs.</div>
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· <span style="line-height: 14.2667px;">A good option for Loropetalums that have outgrown their space is to tree-form them. They can easily be limbed up by removing lower branches. Loropetalum ‘Crimson Fire’ is a new dwarf from that has proven to be hardy in all but the coldest part of Tennessee. As with all Loropetalums, they are best planted in spring or summer in insure proper establishment before the winter months. It will mature to 3-ft tall, and can be seen growing at the UT Gardens in both Knoxville and Jackson.</span></div>
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· <i>Ker</i><i></i><i></i><i>ria japonica</i>, also known as Japanese kerria or yellow rose of Texas, often has dead branches. Follow them to the base to cut them. Remove older branches the same way to keep the plant looking good. Older, overgrown or neglected plants can be cut to the ground for rejuvenation.</div>
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· Azaleas often show symptoms of lace bug and spider mite infestations during the hot months of summer. This damage can be prevented by a one-time, early application of the systemic insecticide imidacloprid. This insecticide should be poured in liquid form around the root system as the flowers fade, spreading the active ingredients throughout the plant tissue where it remains effective through the growing season. Bayer Advanced Tree and Shrub Insect Control is a common brand that contains this safe and effective insecticide. Always follow label directions when applying any pesticide.</div>
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· You can direct seed easy-to-grow flowering annuals and vegetables. Some easy flowers to grow from seed include marigold, zinnia, sunflowers and cosmos. Beans, peas, corn and okra are some easy direct sow vegetables, while dill, basil and cilantro are some easy direct sow herbs.</div>
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· Try the annual moon vine, <i>Ipomoea alba</i>, this year to attract sphinx moths to your garden. </div>
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Nick the hard seed coat carefully with nail clippers and soak in water overnight to hasten germination.<br />
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· Spring is a good time to freshen up the mulch in your landscape. Remember not to pile it around the trunks of your trees and shrubs. If using a pre-emergent herbicide, be sure to apply it before spreading your mulch to prevent the sunlight from breaking it down. It also forms a more effective barrier when allowed to bond with soil particles. Remember it is not necessary to fertilize well-established trees or shrubs. If you are trying to encourage faster growth on new plantings, a balanced granular fertilizer scattered on the soil surface is effective. Be careful not to overdo it. Tree spikes or drilling fertilizer into the root zone is unnecessary and expensive.</div>
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· Cut back any woody perennials that may need it, like rosemary, rue, lavender, Santolina and Artemisia. If done before the danger of frost has passed, new growth may appear, and a freeze can kill that new growth and sometimes the entire plant.</div>
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<span style="line-height: 14.2667px;">For additional tips, visit the UT Extension website: </span><a href="http://extension.tennessee.edu/" style="color: #517c96; outline: none 0px; text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="line-height: 14.2667px;">extension.tennessee.edu</span></a><span style="line-height: 14.2667px;"> and click on the menu link to “Publications.” Enter the term “landscaping” or “gardening” in the search engine. You can also contact your local county UT Extension agent.</span></div>
Color Burst Landscapes Bloomin' Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04163913840464530590noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1627058887610218926.post-42801912915148924592017-05-16T12:00:00.000-07:002017-05-16T12:02:36.829-07:00<h2 style="text-align: center;">
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Want Some New Blooms for 2017? </span></h2>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Check out some of these beautiful, award winning perennials!</span></div>
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Best New Perennial Flowers of 2017</span></h1>
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Article Courtesy of George Weigel- http://georgeweigel.net</span></h4>
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<span style="background-color: white;">A showy new ornamental grass, a new dark-leafed succulent, and new disease-resistant phlox and beebalms headline the list of perennial flowers debuting in 2017.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Let’s take a look at some the best of the best of these perennial newcomers showing up now in catalogs and primed to go on sale in garden centers this spring:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJLlOOvp9TagUrE5lJH6zdf62uIpd4G3qSAB0Qe2MXP8ivl5RPMWTo5ujUFwQxYsACZgtLu_KC0cH0VLo-AAiZxjmjl2VVdhHwioenBlwVBLlSz-BHdUNpcuAJETm-9kXeFuZJFKnfWt4/s1600/3Hakone.grass_.SunFlare-300x225.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: white; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJLlOOvp9TagUrE5lJH6zdf62uIpd4G3qSAB0Qe2MXP8ivl5RPMWTo5ujUFwQxYsACZgtLu_KC0cH0VLo-AAiZxjmjl2VVdhHwioenBlwVBLlSz-BHdUNpcuAJETm-9kXeFuZJFKnfWt4/s1600/3Hakone.grass_.SunFlare-300x225.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Japanese forest grass SunFlare</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">Credit: HarkAway Botanicals</span></div>
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<strong style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Japanese forest grass SunFlare</strong></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Pennsylvania author and “perennial diva” <a href="http://www.theperennialdiva.com/" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #3b4d12; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Stephanie Cohen</a> is a fan of the basic, compact, arching, shade-preferring Japanese forest grass (a.k.a. Hakone grass), but she’s particularly enamored by an even more compact and colorful variety called SunFlare coming to garden centers by fall 2017.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">“It starts out with a colorful, showy chartreuse that blends well with other perennials,” Cohen says. “The morning sun makes the leaves glow a golden yellow with deep crimson flecks in the blades. But this little grass has one more trick up its sleeve. The chartreuse and gold mingle, and its fall flare bursts into a rainbow of color with a simmering burnt-orange and one of my favorite fall colors, burgundy-red.”</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">SunFlare grows 12 to 18 inches tall and does best in well-drained soil (no wet clay), ideally in morning sun and afternoon shade. Cohen also likes it for use in a container. It’s being introduced by Canada’s <a href="http://russellnursery.com/harkaway-botanicals-introduces-hakonechloa-sunflaretm" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #3b4d12; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">HarkAway Botanicals</a>.</span></div>
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<strong style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Sedum ‘Firecracker’</strong></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Fans of dark foliage will love this new drought-tough, succulent groundcover for hot, sunny spots.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">“I love the foliage saturation of purple,” says Erica Shaffer, manager at <a href="http://highlandgardens.org/" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #3b4d12; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Highland Gardens</a> in Lower Allen Twp., which plans to carry ‘Firecracker’ this spring. “I can never have enough purple in my garden.”</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Introduced by Michigan’s <a href="http://www.perennialresource.com/encyclopedia/view/?plant=2514" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #3b4d12; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Perennial Resources</a>, ‘Firecracker’ plants grow only about 6 inches tall in a dense, tight mound that doesn’t flop apart like some sedums.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Small pink flowers in late summer are a bonus.</span></div>
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<strong style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Foamybells Fun and Games</strong></div>
<div style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #444444; font-family: "palatino linotype", "book antiqua", palatino, serif; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 0.02em; line-height: 18px; margin-bottom: 20px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="background-color: white;">For afternoon-shade garden beds, check out this new three-version series of foamybells (Heucherella) that rate as the favorite new perennial of Carleen Vorisek, the perennial manager at <a href="http://shop.ashcombe.com/" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #3b4d12; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Ashcombe Farm and Greenhouses </a>in Monroe Twp.<span id="more-9578" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Vorisek especially likes the colorful, deeply lobed foliage of the <a href="https://www.provenwinners.com/search/content/heucherella%20fun%20and%20game" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #3b4d12; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">‘Red Rover’</a> variety. “This plant stays green in summer but changes to a copper-red color in the fall,” she says.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Foamybells Leapfrog, left, and Red Rover</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">Credit: Proven Winners</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">‘Leapfrog’ has wider chartreuse leaves with burgundy markings (“mellowing” to green and purple by summer), while ‘Hopscotch’ has leaves that emerge red in spring, soften to green in summer, then turn bronze-red in fall.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">All three varieties grow 10 to 12 inches tall with creamy white bottlebrush flowers in May. All also are coralbell/foamflower hybrids of U.S. native perennials.</span></div>
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<strong style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Anemone Wild Swan</strong></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Breeders keep trying to extend the bloom time of perennials. This Scottish hybrid is one of the longest yet, producing its white petals with the unusual soft-lavender back sides nearly non-stop from June through October.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">I saw Wild Swan in plantsman David Wilson’s Lower Paxton Twp. garden last summer, and it was happily blooming away in July’s dry heat.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Anemone Wild Swan</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">The plant is related to the better known Japanese anemone that blooms in early fall, but this one blooms much earlier (as well as longer) and is more compact at 18 to 20 inches tall. Anemone Dreaming Swan is also new and very similar.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">These anemones are sterile and so don’t seed around. (Best in morning sun, afternoon shade.)</span></div>
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<strong style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Liriope Purple Explosion</strong></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Liriope is a grass-like, workhouse perennial that’s usually used as a groundcover for its versatility and hard-to-kill reputation.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Purple Explosion is a new variety that turns the corner on liriope to make it an attractive bloomer, worthy of ornamental use alongside the coneflowers, lavenders and salvias of the garden.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">The variety not only produces significantly more purple flower spikes than older liriopes, but it produces them earlier, longer and on stems that poke up more prominently above the bladed green foliage.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Plants grow 10 to 12 inches tall, and clumps spread slowly – no over-aggressive “runners” as some liriopes produce. (Full sun to part shade.)</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Yarrow New Vintage Red, left, and Violet</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">Credit: Penn State Trial Gardens</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">This four-color series of heat- and drought-tough yarrows from <a href="http://darwinperennials.com/Products/Plantinfo/?phid=000406781004669" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #3b4d12; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Darwin Perennials</a> was one of the best-performing perennials of any kind in the 2016 Penn State Trial Gardens in Lancaster County.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">The Red and Violet colors did particularly well in 2016’s hot summer, earning nearly perfect scores from trial Director Sinclair Adam.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">New Vintage plants grow to a compact 12 to 14 inches tall. They bloom for weeks in late spring, then rebloom nicely in late summer, especially if you cut spent flower stalks back to the ground after the first bloom fades. (Best in full sun.)</span></div>
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<strong style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Phlox Fashionably Early series</strong></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Amanda Bastiaanse, a perennials grower at wholesale <a href="http://www.qualitygreenhouses.net/" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #3b4d12; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Quality Greenhouses </a>near Dillsburg, likes this new four-color line of early-flowering, disease-resistant, native tall garden phlox introduced by <a href="http://www.perennialresource.com/encyclopedia/results/?search=PEN-PHL&type=B" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #3b4d12; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Michigan’s Walters Gardens</a>.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">“Old-fashioned garden phlox, while they have beautiful flowers, tend to have a short bloom time and are prone to all kinds of fungal diseases that make them look ugly much of the season,” says Bastiaanse. “Many of the new hybrid phlox that we have grown in the last couple years, including the Fashionably Early series, are really great improvements in terms of the length of time they flower and disease resistance. These bloom a little earlier, too.”</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">The Fashionably Early series includes ‘Princess’ (fuchsia pink), ‘Flamingo’ (lavender pink), ‘Crystal’ (white), and ‘Lavender Ice’ (lavender with a pink eye). Plants grow 28 to 36 inches tall and perform best in full sun.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Coneflower Butterfly Postman</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">Credit: Plants Nouveau</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">This new heat- and drought-tough U.S. native offers both a short, 18-inch size and bright-red blooms as opposed to the traditional lavender-pink of coneflowers.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">“Fiery red flowers and a contrasting brown cone make for a lovely combination in this compact, long-blooming addition to the Butterfly series,” says Angela Treadwell-Palmer, co-owner of <a href="http://plantsnouveau.com/plant/echinacea-postman-2" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #3b4d12; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Plants Nouveau</a>, which is introducing the plant. “It’s a true red with slightly dropping petals. ‘Postman’ stands out in any planting like a red-lighted beacon.”</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Treadwell-Palmer says it looks especially nice with blue ornamental grasses, white- and orange-flowered perennials and coarsely textured leaves like ‘Black Ripple’ elephant ear. Best in full sun.</span></div>
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<strong style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Monarda Bee-You series</strong></div>
<div style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #444444; font-family: "palatino linotype", "book antiqua", palatino, serif; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 0.02em; line-height: 18px; margin-bottom: 20px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="background-color: white;">Treadwell-Palmer also likes this new <a href="http://plantsnouveau.com/plant-type/perennial-plants/#letter-M" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #3b4d12; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">pollinator-friendly line of beebalms</a> with the excellent disease resistance, compact 18- to 24-inch size, and range of five colors.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">“These new beebalms are mildew-free, covered in flowers, the perfect size, and available in colors to bring any outdoor space to life,” she says. “Bees, butterflies and hummingbirds can’t resist their sweet nectar and fragrance.”</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi64i_zxUuv-e2Aayq3Sb7ymkkH1buWjC-PINsfufblokMieoOxaejDaLFo26g27lB4QJnWDxUs0zbRekptrFBvTtZN_w2KdHlQHX8se5jDI8Ss9kizge52rrze-6OWLoAw4Px4ufJ_dQI/s1600/11monarda.BeeTrue1-300x200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: white; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi64i_zxUuv-e2Aayq3Sb7ymkkH1buWjC-PINsfufblokMieoOxaejDaLFo26g27lB4QJnWDxUs0zbRekptrFBvTtZN_w2KdHlQHX8se5jDI8Ss9kizge52rrze-6OWLoAw4Px4ufJ_dQI/s1600/11monarda.BeeTrue1-300x200.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Monarda BeeTrue</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">Credit: Plants Nouveau</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Varieties include ‘Bee-Merry’ (coral pink), ‘Bee-Free’ (maroon), ‘Bee-Happy’ (red), ‘Bee-Lieve’ (pale pink), and ‘Bee-True’ (purple). Best in full sun.</span></div>
<div style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #444444; font-family: "palatino linotype", "book antiqua", palatino, serif; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 0.02em; line-height: 18px; margin-bottom: 20px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<strong style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Lamium Purple Chablis</strong></div>
<div style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #444444; font-family: "palatino linotype", "book antiqua", palatino, serif; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 0.02em; line-height: 18px; margin-bottom: 20px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="background-color: white;">Ashcombe’s Vorisek suggests this Proven Winners newcomer as a colorful groundcover in shady to partly shaded areas.</span></div>
<div style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #444444; font-family: "palatino linotype", "book antiqua", palatino, serif; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 0.02em; line-height: 18px; margin-bottom: 20px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="background-color: white;">She says <a href="https://www.provenwinners.com/plants/lamium/purple-chablis-dead-nettle-lamium-maculatum" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #3b4d12; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">lamium Purple Chablis</a> has “silver-green foliage that’s attractive all during the growing season. The purple flowers add flare.”</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Plants grow only 10 to 12 inches tall and bloom a long time, starting in late spring and running most of the way through summer.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">“It would be a great option for shade perennial containers, too,” Vorisek adds.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Purple Chablis is heat- and drought-tough, isn’t bothered by deer, and tolerant of nearly full sun as well as nearly full shade.</span></div>
<div style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #444444; font-family: "palatino linotype", "book antiqua", palatino, serif; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 0.02em; line-height: 18px; margin-bottom: 20px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<strong style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Rudbeckia American Gold Rush</strong></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">The black-eyed susan variety ‘Goldsturm’ is one of America’s best-sellers, but it’s increasingly troubled by a septoria leaf-spot disease that blackens its leaves many years in late summer.</span></div>
<div style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #444444; font-family: "palatino linotype", "book antiqua", palatino, serif; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 0.02em; line-height: 18px; margin-bottom: 20px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="background-color: white;">American Gold Rush is a new rudbeckia variety from Illinois’ <a href="http://www.intrinsicperennialgardens.com/sitefiles" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #3b4d12; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Intrinsic Perennials</a> with much narrower leaves and far better disease resistance. It’s also debuting as an HGTV brand under the name Everlasting Sun.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">American Gold Rush plants bloom just as heavily as ‘Goldsturm’ with 3-inch golden, daisy-like flowers that produce over about 2 months from mid to late summer. Plant height is just under 2 feet. (Best in full sun.)</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWCYShePxA1lIr_Q8mafvrfPWlx6mKxKVVWLIEaAwENa5Z8DWBW8jxU_pSauD1p27y3_mCo1XP5VqA89jxxMuvjuGl33FlM0Xn8Ug1mfbP9atbsa_bDvrjwU8EIlIaZ8fddvZ6EixakI0/s1600/14ligularia.King_.Kong_.Walters2-300x219.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: white; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWCYShePxA1lIr_Q8mafvrfPWlx6mKxKVVWLIEaAwENa5Z8DWBW8jxU_pSauD1p27y3_mCo1XP5VqA89jxxMuvjuGl33FlM0Xn8Ug1mfbP9atbsa_bDvrjwU8EIlIaZ8fddvZ6EixakI0/s1600/14ligularia.King_.Kong_.Walters2-300x219.jpg" /></a></div>
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<div class="wp-caption-text" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #444444; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 0.02em; line-height: 18px; margin-bottom: 20px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="background-color: white;">Ligularia King Kong</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">Credit: Walters Gardens</span></div>
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<div style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #444444; font-family: "palatino linotype", "book antiqua", palatino, serif; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 0.02em; line-height: 18px; margin-bottom: 20px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<strong style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Ligularia ‘King Kong’</strong></div>
<div style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #444444; font-family: "palatino linotype", "book antiqua", palatino, serif; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 0.02em; line-height: 18px; margin-bottom: 20px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="background-color: white;">If you like both dark leaves and very big ones, you’ll hit the double jackpot with ‘King Kong,’ a hefty new shade-preferring perennial introduced by Michigan’s <a href="http://www.perennialresource.com/encyclopedia/view/?plant=2615" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #3b4d12; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Walters Gardens</a>.</span></div>
<div style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #444444; font-family: "palatino linotype", "book antiqua", palatino, serif; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 0.02em; line-height: 18px; margin-bottom: 20px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="background-color: white;">‘King Kong’ is similar to an existing head-turner called ‘Britt-Marie Crawford,’ except this one’s leaves are nearly twice as big – checking in around 16 inches across. They’re also leathery and nearly black.</span></div>
<div style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #444444; font-family: "palatino linotype", "book antiqua", palatino, serif; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 0.02em; line-height: 18px; margin-bottom: 20px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="background-color: white;">Plants grow about 3 feet tall, produce a few stalks topped with golden flowers in summer, and do best in damp soil and afternoon shade.</span></div>
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<h3 class="related_post_title" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; clear: both; color: #3b4d12; font-family: "lucida sans", "lucida grande", sans-serif; font-size: 18px; font-weight: normal; margin: 0px 0px 25px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<div style="border: 0px; color: #444444; font-family: "palatino linotype", "book antiqua", palatino, serif; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 0.02em; line-height: 18px; margin-bottom: 20px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<em style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Read <a href="http://georgeweigel.net/georges-current-ramblings-and-readlings/best-new-fruits-and-vegetables-of-2017" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #3b4d12; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Best New Fruits and Vegetables of 2017</a></em></div>
<div style="border: 0px; color: #444444; font-family: "palatino linotype", "book antiqua", palatino, serif; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 0.02em; line-height: 18px; margin-bottom: 20px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<em style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Read <a href="http://georgeweigel.net/georges-current-ramblings-and-readlings/best-new-annual-flowers-of-2017" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #3b4d12; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Best New Annual Flowers of 2017</a></em></div>
<div style="border: 0px; color: #444444; font-family: "palatino linotype", "book antiqua", palatino, serif; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: 0.02em; line-height: 18px; margin-bottom: 20px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<em style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Read <a href="http://georgeweigel.net/georges-current-ramblings-and-readlings/best-new-trees-and-shrubs-of-2017" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; color: #3b4d12; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Best New Trees and Shrubs of 2017</a></em></div>
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Color Burst Landscapes Bloomin' Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04163913840464530590noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1627058887610218926.post-16958494683310660712016-04-01T06:27:00.000-07:002016-07-14T09:22:31.177-07:00Peony-One of the Most Beloved Flowers<!--[if !mso]>
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<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQhQT6jrlddzbjEPmlNWCotD-1ZJYUk3nkuwsuD5MM_whkwKJXjFqrZVx9dUJmx9HbdQMUIrXhOa_aygOCHK98Q8FK7doCoaGF-VTOuEldxCB6tQdj49Eya0BOIT8zgAOQ4ORhYkaRoNA/s1600/pink-peonies.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQhQT6jrlddzbjEPmlNWCotD-1ZJYUk3nkuwsuD5MM_whkwKJXjFqrZVx9dUJmx9HbdQMUIrXhOa_aygOCHK98Q8FK7doCoaGF-VTOuEldxCB6tQdj49Eya0BOIT8zgAOQ4ORhYkaRoNA/s320/pink-peonies.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXLz8EwP8RbFC9Tn2KVlKVPxtjxgkXG5wqUJxr9c7KM54WcI5-tR2vjZ3O6geUVeiovgG0xnEbZNeTDheiC914jx4zV-q4nFEC813EGcRPrAMPMMhU5CW4PuMY4Xxtzaj1He-uMvOlHtA/s1600/pink-peonies.jpg"><span style="color: blue; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-no-proof: yes; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"><span style="mso-ignore: vglayout;"></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Peonies </span></b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">are outrageously beautiful in bloom, with lush foliage all
summer long. These perennials may live longer than you do—some have been known
to thrive for 100 years. The plants require little maintenance as long as they
are planted properly and establish themselves; they do not respond well
to transplanting.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Peonies take your breath away every
spring. They’re hardy to Zone 3 and grow well as far south as Zones 7 and 8. In
most of the country, the rules for success are simply full sun and well-drained
soil. Peonies even relish cold winters, because they need chilling for
bud formation.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Peonies make fine sentinels lining
walkways and a lovely low hedge. After its stunning bloom, the peony’s bushy
clump of handsome glossy green leaves lasts all summer, and then turns purplish
or gold in the fall, as stately and dignified as any shrub.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">In mixed borders, peonies bloom with
columbines, baptisias, and veronicas, and combine well with irises and roses.
Plant white peonies with yellow irises and a froth of forget-me-nots; set off
pink peonies with blue Nepeta or violets.</span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8esP82AuMikMT6giULKi_Tl5N23-JLHy2a0gXpj31mFLGnFI_dEuR1naKJ5sqH_raYJSvqjBV_8MgwwEi-xhmoR19RQ03OxTzOaNcYcVeWFdc4yBJi6ZeNk6rnqwlY2k6ojhrZ07aXlc/s1600/Peony-Garden.jpg"><span style="color: blue; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-no-proof: yes; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"><span style="mso-ignore: vglayout;"></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2L-81LPTiShGjApXlcYUPGyg923Lhhze3VSp_OZb2qFeQYpVmCl-CbHmw2uL48Gu4LspVfPEWll6wq9JKpvDJAyEZlQRvfkZt8wziLTPPVuriq8K_YwugnsIsSKgaDJ_PDIDItlp2X9M/s1600/Peony-Garden.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="165" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2L-81LPTiShGjApXlcYUPGyg923Lhhze3VSp_OZb2qFeQYpVmCl-CbHmw2uL48Gu4LspVfPEWll6wq9JKpvDJAyEZlQRvfkZt8wziLTPPVuriq8K_YwugnsIsSKgaDJ_PDIDItlp2X9M/s320/Peony-Garden.jpg" width="320" /></a><b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 18.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Planting</span></b>
</div>
<br />
<ul type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Grow peonies in deep, fertile, humus-rich, moist soil
that drains well. Soil pH should be neutral.</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The soil will benefit from the addition of organic
material in the planting hole. If the soil is heavy or very sandy, enrich
it with compost. Incorporate about 1 cup of bonemeal into the soil. Tamp
soil firmly.</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Peonies are not fussy but choose your location wisely
as they resent disturbance. Provide shelter from strong winds. Plant away
from trees or shrubs as peonies don’t like to compete for food and
moisture. Space them three to four feet apart for good
air circulation.</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Peonies like full sun, and though they can manage with
half a day, they bloom best in a sunny spot.</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Peonies are usually sold as bare-root tubers with three
to five eyes, divisions of a three- or four-year-old plant.</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Plant peonies in the fall: in late September and
October in most of the country, and even later in the South. (If you must
move an established plant, this is the time.)</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Peonies should be settled into place before the first
hard frost. Spring-planted peonies just don’t do as well, experts agree;
they generally lag about a year behind those planted in the fall.</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Dig a generous-sized hole, about two feet deep and two
feet across in well-drained soil in a sunny spot. If the soil is heavy or
very sandy, enrich it with compost. Incorporate about one cup of bonemeal
into the soil. Tamp it firmly.</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Set the root so the eyes face upward on top of the
firmed soil, placing the root just 2 inches below the soil surface. (In
southern states, choose early-blooming varieties, plant them about an inch
deep, and provide some shade.)</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Then backfill the hole, taking care that the soil doesn’t
settle and bury the root deeper than 2 inches.</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Water thoroughly.</span></li>
</ul>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Tip:</span></b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> Don’t plant too deep! In most of the country, the
peony’s eyes (buds) should be no deeper than 1-½ to 2 inches below the
soil line!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi59iEdcnwbkOZxAiMYtrBNWd-vtmeKtoOMkJCm-JaTl3F3sFYcvAQqq2cRo1_KrFwl4-uhKuckLeuXuc16nJX-URJd4GMAAWUl7PVdciXhOqVNGcx-WYlURXGkacf12_ZUBexRGlU4xUo/s1600/8106-adjustable-peony-supports.jpg"><span style="color: blue; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-no-proof: yes; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"><span style="mso-ignore: vglayout;"></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiS7Sru28Jp_2-yKIaHWUMdIblCXZs-qZxrXTwu2YrgyKWCj0fBh3VMnYwxM2FWnk0EP361DccSO14nw3JKrGYZ9a9KoX1kZ76kzVCi_UhXu-Op4z4OBHYqOw45rxX6FPcZIl7VYVsab4/s1600/8106-adjustable-peony-supports.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiS7Sru28Jp_2-yKIaHWUMdIblCXZs-qZxrXTwu2YrgyKWCj0fBh3VMnYwxM2FWnk0EP361DccSO14nw3JKrGYZ9a9KoX1kZ76kzVCi_UhXu-Op4z4OBHYqOw45rxX6FPcZIl7VYVsab4/s1600/8106-adjustable-peony-supports.jpg" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 18.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Care</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Like children, young peonies take
time to develop. They usually need a few years to establish themselves, bloom,
and grow.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Peonies thrive on benign neglect.
Unlike most perennials, they don’t need to be dug and divided.</span></div>
<ul type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Spare the fertilizer. Work the soil well before you
plant, mixing in a little fertilizer, and that should be enough.</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">If your soil is poor, the time to apply fertilizer
(bonemeal, compost, or well-rotted manure) is early summer, after the
peonies have bloomed and you have deadheaded. Don’t fertilizer more than
every few years.</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Help the stems. If peonies have any structural
weakness, it is their stems, which are sometimes not strong enough to
support their gigantic blossoms. Consider three-legged metal peony rings
that allow the plant to grow through the center of the rings.</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Deadhead peony blossoms as soon as they begin to fade,
cutting to a strong leaf so that the stem doesn’t stick out of the
foliage. Cut the foliage to the ground in the fall to avoid any
overwintering disease.</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Don’t smother peonies with mulch. Where cold
temperatures are severe, for the first winter after planting you can mulch
VERY loosely with pine needles or shredded bark. Remove mulch in
the spring.</span></li>
</ul>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 18.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Pests/Diseases</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Peonies are generally very hardy.
They are prone to Verticillium wilt, ringspot virus, tip blight, stem rot,
Botrytis blight, left blotch, <a href="http://www.almanac.com/content/japanese-beetles"><span style="color: blue;">Japanese
beetle</span></a>, and nematodes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Many gardeners wonder why so many
ants crawl on the peony buds. They are eating nectar in exchange for attacking
bud-eating pests. Never spray the ants; they’re helping you nurture peonies
to bloom.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Tip: </span></b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Peonies make wonderful cut flowers, lasting more than a
week. For best results, cut long stems when the buds are still
fairly tight.</span></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Article
Courtesy of The Farmers Almanac</span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></b></div>
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Color Burst Landscapes Bloomin' Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04163913840464530590noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1627058887610218926.post-67651161023620724132016-03-21T06:48:00.000-07:002016-03-21T06:48:14.480-07:00All You Need to Know About Endless Summer Hydrangeas....<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<u><b>Planting Hydrangeas</b></u></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy-bGxvCJm-8_oD9yFGOsk_C0zu0cYYE8a9jhNSt9aUjY4yQc3JOJrG8zxGvjaRo8CrdAqDElWM5hUNbJ30ipK8OyMHYpP3GKHU10NRsoEQ8KXkFDbBrbWJN6j1OKLNlsTbKpJaDKjExE/s1600/planting-and-care-site-selection.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy-bGxvCJm-8_oD9yFGOsk_C0zu0cYYE8a9jhNSt9aUjY4yQc3JOJrG8zxGvjaRo8CrdAqDElWM5hUNbJ30ipK8OyMHYpP3GKHU10NRsoEQ8KXkFDbBrbWJN6j1OKLNlsTbKpJaDKjExE/s320/planting-and-care-site-selection.jpg" width="213" /></a>Endless Summer® Hydrangeas is a collection of Hydrangea
macrophylla perennial shrubs that have<br />
the unique ability to re-bloom
throughout the spring and summer months, giving more color and <br />
visual appeal to
your garden for a longer period of time. Endless Summer hydrangea are known to
bloom 10 to 12 weeks longer than average Hydrangea macrophylla plants and show
well in colder climates since they are able to bloom on the current season’s
new growth. Here are some basic guidelines to follow that will teach you how to
grow hydrangeas:<br />
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When determining where to plant your Endless Summer
hydrangeas, take a walk through your yard and make note of existing garden
plants, spacing availability, areas that need splashes of color and amount of
sun. We recommend planting
your hydrangeas in a location that allows for full morning sun with dappled
shade in the afternoon. The further south you live, the less tolerant the
plants are to the intense sun. Allow for 2-3 hours of morning sun with
afternoon dappled or part shade.</div>
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<u><b>Soil Preparation</b></u></div>
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Other than climate, soil is the most important aspect of
growing these plants that is naturally occurring. Making sure that your soil is
properly prepared will hugely affect your overall plant health and bloom
production. To begin, you have to determine what type of soil you have. Ask
your local nursery for a soil test kit. Another home test is called the “Jar
Test”. Dig down 4” and remove ¼ cup of your soil. Place that soil, along with 2
cups of water and a couple drops of dishwashing detergent, in a clear jar or
plastic bottle. Shake the jar for approximately one minute and then let the
contents settle for approximately 24 hours. The bottom layer to settle out is
sand, with the next layer silt and the top layer (which may look like
yellow-brown, red or tan water) being clay.</div>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sand: Sandy soil
is determined if your jar is over half sand.</div>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Silt: If you have
very little clay and over half silt, you have heavy silt.</div>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Clay: If you have
¼ clay and a good amount of silt, you have clay soil.</div>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Loam: Loam soil
will be 2/5 sand, 2/5 silt and a narrow layer of clay.</div>
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Once you’ve determined what type of soil you have, you can
more effectively prepare the soil for your hydrangeas. The ideal soil type for
these plants is loam. If you have a heavy clay soil, add gypsum to the soil to
break up the clay and allow for drainage. A good rule of thumb is to apply 5 –
15 pounds of gypsum per 100 square feet. In sandy soil, peat moss can help
absorb moisture. Additionally, good soil should have at least 5 percent organic
matter, compost material also known as humus. This should be spread 2 – 6
inches deep across the entire bed. Hydrangeas typically grow best with a higher
level of organic material. Especially in clay soil, organic matter creates air
pockets that greatly help with water drainage.</div>
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<u><b>Planting Hydrangeas:</b></u></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXNSE3WzopkrZOTBY6NTFG7A8JNHR61c8XI2EdbCvJFUqxYSH2gWOWkpJRnfcl96lOVtWW_oxE1zIIQs0U_Htglhm7bT3Pnq5u0LopsT0m_Wf4vd-sJdS8VT-dyWo8__PCH19_3-InUbQ/s1600/planting-and-care-planting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXNSE3WzopkrZOTBY6NTFG7A8JNHR61c8XI2EdbCvJFUqxYSH2gWOWkpJRnfcl96lOVtWW_oxE1zIIQs0U_Htglhm7bT3Pnq5u0LopsT0m_Wf4vd-sJdS8VT-dyWo8__PCH19_3-InUbQ/s320/planting-and-care-planting.jpg" width="157" /></a>Once you have prepared your soil, lay out the plants in your
intended design. Be sure to keep in mind </div>
full mature size of the plants,
ensuring that they will barely touch at full size. This will make your garden
look full and allow for air to still circulate through the garden. Dig your
planting hole slightly larger than the pot size, and place any fertilizer (see
below), organic material or nutrients needed to improve your soil mix in the
hole before putting your hydrangeas in place. If the roots are tightly packed,
loosen them gently with your fingers before planting hydrangeas to encourage
root growth and spread once in the ground. Make sure that the crown of the
plant – where the base of the stems meets the soil – is even with the ground
level. If the hydrangea is placed too high, it can easily dry out. If the crown
is placed too low when planting, it can cause hydrangeas not to bloom and
potentially rot. Refill the hole with soil and pack it firmly around the crown
to create a water dam around the newly planted hydrangea. Fill the dam with
water, let it drain and then refill it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxTKz2z1pYd4mnq2kJjN4J9VqrJvda0LLFYYtu-XlunGNDe1Rgqh6EN_X8XWwN17gbqMLNxsocq_lK8NWuodSswfdAXysrC0yD2GdBLEW-aALn5jTWu-LzciJkhzg2cBqPAsDxubuBtFQ/s1600/planting-and-care-fertilizing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxTKz2z1pYd4mnq2kJjN4J9VqrJvda0LLFYYtu-XlunGNDe1Rgqh6EN_X8XWwN17gbqMLNxsocq_lK8NWuodSswfdAXysrC0yD2GdBLEW-aALn5jTWu-LzciJkhzg2cBqPAsDxubuBtFQ/s320/planting-and-care-fertilizing.jpg" width="213" /></a><u><b> </b></u></div>
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<u><b>Fertilizing:</b></u></div>
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Hydrangeas do especially well when fertilizers are
effectively used in spring or early summer. We </div>
recommend using a granular, slow-release
fertilizer with a NPK ratio of 10-30-10. Follow the package instructions when
applying fertilizer and be sure not to use too much. Over-fertilizing can cause
hydrangeas to grow big green leaves, but stunt bloom production.<br />
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<u><b>Watering:</b></u></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVdFMhyphenhyphenk-CLrCP6jGTw3kYuLtyXE0DeolmtiywHHL0F0qBQRdPnaXrk_aQJf8MtlneudzEKZGNJ9u-wQa-IYhYRZ1juERi9EonolXImYKRo3aXRMmKLWjfemHNde3Lx0564ws3odYFg0I/s1600/planting-and-care-watering.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVdFMhyphenhyphenk-CLrCP6jGTw3kYuLtyXE0DeolmtiywHHL0F0qBQRdPnaXrk_aQJf8MtlneudzEKZGNJ9u-wQa-IYhYRZ1juERi9EonolXImYKRo3aXRMmKLWjfemHNde3Lx0564ws3odYFg0I/s320/planting-and-care-watering.jpg" width="320" /></a>Hydrangeas prefer well-drained, moist soil, but not wet;
overwatering can cause hydrangeas to </div>
produce less flowers. Depending on your
soil type, you will need to adjust how frequently and how much you water. Clay
soil holds more water than sandy or loam soil types, and produces more runoff
because it doesn’t allow as much water to soak in as a looser sandy soil. We
recommend using a drip irrigation system, a soaker hose or hand watering the
shrubs when the ground feels dry. If your hydrangeas are planted in an area
that sees high temperatures, they may wilt a bit in the afternoon, but will
revive when the temperatures cool down. You can assist with this by watering in
the morning or evening when the wind is more still and the sun less hot. Using
mulch is another great way of conserving water and keeping the ground cool.
Mulched plants typically can go longer periods of time between watering than
non-mulched plants.<br />
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<u><b>Blue or Pink Blooms:</b></u></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-5ddJnQR4qNoDvSuQ6BdpbpAdWk6DyL1RUDj5Cq68g5YwHsERE8oIDbeq_mA98Cceom6jzh2z5vTZmOpGK5vxPQB9Y6k_yIfnax7qtQ2kiPHhHfpVI8X-rf0YEGrnpJycjhrllbRaeM4/s1600/planting-and-care-colorme.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-5ddJnQR4qNoDvSuQ6BdpbpAdWk6DyL1RUDj5Cq68g5YwHsERE8oIDbeq_mA98Cceom6jzh2z5vTZmOpGK5vxPQB9Y6k_yIfnax7qtQ2kiPHhHfpVI8X-rf0YEGrnpJycjhrllbRaeM4/s320/planting-and-care-colorme.jpg" width="320" /></a>One of the most beautiful traits of an Endless Summer
hydrangea is the ability to change the color of </div>
the blooms. A simple soil test
from your local nursery can help determine your pH level, which will determine
your hydrangea colors. Other than Blushing Bride, which is a white hydrangea,
soil with a pH below 6.0 (acidic soil) will produce blue hydrangea blooms and a
pH above 6.0 will produce pink hydrangea flowers. Depending on your preference,
you are able to change the color of your hydrangea colors to fit your desired
color! Endless Summer has a formulated product that changes the color of your
blooms. Color Me Pink™ adds garden lime to the soil to raise the pH level and
produce pink hydrangea flowers. Color Me Blue™ adds soil sulfur to encourage
blue hydrangea bloom development. These products are safe, organic and all-natural.
There are also other natural remedies to changing hydrangea colors. To
encourage blue blooms in alkaline soils, add aluminum sulfate, composted oak
leaves, pine needles or coffee grounds. To encourage pink blooms in acidic
soil, add wood ashes, lime or fertilizers with high levels of phosphorus (a
ratio of 25-10-10 is best) to prevent aluminum from entering the plant’s
system.<br />
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<u><b>How to Prune Hydrangeas:</b></u></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9-M0a8LM_LdR6jHcaZBqdmlKnQBpPxAIc8XAsb8kZM0j8c0nCZGHwGxovtv-x9iq0wV0it9irPwP4_halSfqZG23t8LNGR9Ox8XLVdE29wEqaKCjSXjisgDlCcrkKrFtKWYckU_Q08Mg/s1600/planting-and-care-pruning.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9-M0a8LM_LdR6jHcaZBqdmlKnQBpPxAIc8XAsb8kZM0j8c0nCZGHwGxovtv-x9iq0wV0it9irPwP4_halSfqZG23t8LNGR9Ox8XLVdE29wEqaKCjSXjisgDlCcrkKrFtKWYckU_Q08Mg/s320/planting-and-care-pruning.jpg" width="213" /></a>Endless Summer hydrangeas require very little pruning
day-to-day, so you are able to simply enjoy </div>
the beautiful plants. These
perennial hydrangeas bloom on growth from the current year as well as previous
years, which allows for the re-blooming throughout the summer. If you prune too
much, you will be removing potential blooms. If you prune to shape the plant or
cut blooms for fresh hydrangea arrangements, be sure not to over-prune, or you
will have less blooms next year.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><b>Overwintering:</b></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyG1VeNipMAVs1_xE6qTViEVXlq3l_MMeHHsg4s0tXNUCtl5bWNwiWO08Y45ZrdqfOfzsvP8LqF6CmqShApUUigpslY-ahcQX4gthsHpsiW9PehNiP_LSo1a0S0tzMLUatxgDwniwHo0A/s1600/planting-and-care-overwintering.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyG1VeNipMAVs1_xE6qTViEVXlq3l_MMeHHsg4s0tXNUCtl5bWNwiWO08Y45ZrdqfOfzsvP8LqF6CmqShApUUigpslY-ahcQX4gthsHpsiW9PehNiP_LSo1a0S0tzMLUatxgDwniwHo0A/s320/planting-and-care-overwintering.jpg" width="155" /></a>If you live in an area with freezing temperatures, it is a
good idea to protect your plants from freezing winter temperatures. Since
Endless Summer® Hydrangeas bloom on last year’s growth (“old wood”) as well as
the current season’s growth (“new wood”), you will get the most flowers by
protecting the flower buds on the old wood. To do this, do NOT prune or cut
back your shrubs after August 1st. Leaving the fall blooms on your plants over
the winter provides winter interest, and ensures you aren’t removing buds that
will become flowers in the spring and summer. Leaves, wood mulch and/or straw
are good options to insulate your plants. Mound the mulch or leaves around your
plants at least 12” high to protect the flower buds that will bloom early next
year.<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
In the spring, do not remove the mulch too fast; wait until
all danger of frost has passed before uncovering to ensure beautiful blooms
from old and new wood. The “old wood” buds will provide early season color and
the blooms forming on current season growth will typically occur roughly six
weeks later and last through the end of the season.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
If your hydrangeas are planted in a container, bring the
entire container into your garage or a cool basement for the winter months, and
follow the same steps as garden-planted hydrangeas. Container plants will not
require as much mulch, but should be lightly watered throughout the winter months
since they will not receive moisture from snow and rain.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
- See more at:
http://www.endlesssummerblooms.com/design-and-grow/planting-</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
and-care#sthash.HkOp0WUn.dpuf</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Article courtesy of www.endlesssummerblooms.com </div>
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<![endif]--> Color Burst Landscapes Bloomin' Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04163913840464530590noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1627058887610218926.post-68066276087492361022016-03-10T05:59:00.000-08:002016-03-10T05:59:21.590-08:00Spring is Just Around the Corner<!--[if !mso]>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPMrtIej8QarX9ww0W-c9e2nTs3ACUDTiMhD5AAUPFbXokdrJL3RvAo3d9BY_o45UyIYnEoNkivr7cb0VPV0e6OCQyWc6GYLIiX_gnO3VzwiD42e8ck1_gCowRyvTvrIDq74ABk8Y7gCY/s1600/pre-emergent_herbicide_barrier.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPMrtIej8QarX9ww0W-c9e2nTs3ACUDTiMhD5AAUPFbXokdrJL3RvAo3d9BY_o45UyIYnEoNkivr7cb0VPV0e6OCQyWc6GYLIiX_gnO3VzwiD42e8ck1_gCowRyvTvrIDq74ABk8Y7gCY/s320/pre-emergent_herbicide_barrier.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="en-US" style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 114%;">It's starting to warm up down south. Here in Tennessee, we have temperatures in the 60's pushing 70 sometimes and it's time for a few things to be done.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="en-US" style="color: black; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 114%;"><b>Lawn and landscape Pre-Emergent Weed Control.</b><br />
<br />If you haven't already done it, its time to get some weed control down. Using the pre-emergent products are easier to control most weeds with. If you stop the weed before it gets out of the ground the lawn looks better, and for landscape beds if you can stop the weed from coming up, you don't have to pull them later. Some landscape plants like ground covers are particularly hard to control weeds, so pre-emergents are the only option. </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFFLFAFmCnFgh2HcB-hbtapF2BCNF_CR4b5VYXSjrvz-5t3CT8h_Ne0RWa3WSiqRZHa97Ks3cYNZiaSx0F0HisQMNuY0e8PZikcMfxNguN6SXGO6fqVHk0G7eE0Sv9F8iXLRI-VdRggYw/s1600/Mulch-1024x682.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFFLFAFmCnFgh2HcB-hbtapF2BCNF_CR4b5VYXSjrvz-5t3CT8h_Ne0RWa3WSiqRZHa97Ks3cYNZiaSx0F0HisQMNuY0e8PZikcMfxNguN6SXGO6fqVHk0G7eE0Sv9F8iXLRI-VdRggYw/s320/Mulch-1024x682.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="en-US" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 114%;"><b>Mulching and Pruning</b></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 114%; margin-bottom: 10.0pt; mso-pagination: widow-orphan;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="en-US" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 114%;">Most people like to mulch in spring so the beds look fresh through the early season when every one is out with landscaping on their minds. Keep in mind that some plants don't need to be pruned in spring, it depends on the blooming pattern. Azaleas for example if pruned in early spring before they bloom will not bloom as well this year because you will cut off most of the blooms. A general rule of thumb is to prune after the plant blooms. But it will pay you to do a little research on your particular types of plants to see if they bloom on this years wood or last years wood. That will tell you when to prune. Feel free to contact Color Burst with any questions, we are here to help!</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="en-US" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 114%;">Color Burst has already started the pre-emergent treatments, mulching and bed maintenance<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>to get ready for spring. Our pre-emergent treatments are covered in most of our contracts, so if we have not yet treated your yard we will be there between March and<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>April to make sure your yard stays looking healthy and beautiful through the </span><span lang="en-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 114%;">season. </span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 114%; margin-bottom: 10.0pt; mso-pagination: widow-orphan;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="en-US" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 114%;">If you are in need of mulch, now is the time, so please do not hesitate to contact us and we will send a team out to get those beds looking beautiful and ready for spring!</span></span></div>
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<span lang="en-US" style="language: en-US; mso-ligatures: none;"> Gretta "Green Thumb"</span></div>
Color Burst Landscapes Bloomin' Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04163913840464530590noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1627058887610218926.post-31687172273348713382016-02-16T09:23:00.000-08:002016-02-23T10:46:45.471-08:00The Beauty of the Hellebore<!--[if !mso]>
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<b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 24.0pt;">Hellebore Care – How To Grow Hellebores</span></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieL-ppzhyphenhyphenKwuZ_dukMpCahj3iJd-Q7KUKTqmKYdVPFMp-f8b_lslWmxk9rWTqUFQqTzDbnuC1aCf2mSfnCFNesTRYAErOub0A3UaCT0m7ZJklHn9BuTQNk1Mzj8zkLuZ3IGLoA2JutfqQ/s1600/hellebore1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieL-ppzhyphenhyphenKwuZ_dukMpCahj3iJd-Q7KUKTqmKYdVPFMp-f8b_lslWmxk9rWTqUFQqTzDbnuC1aCf2mSfnCFNesTRYAErOub0A3UaCT0m7ZJklHn9BuTQNk1Mzj8zkLuZ3IGLoA2JutfqQ/s320/hellebore1.jpg" width="320" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4VB9VsPU1oJon2F8f9hwFn9mNO8UuSWgdVTFFLgz4dGu-H1Qtf3W1yj-SfIEaj3trAOhbKOvkixeI-S5uE92DI3QX6-w70jx-sEgYqGwFIiTym0U5rchf7uKNW8mw-dg8VoHe8zyo19g/s1600/hellebore7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Flowers of hellebores are a welcome
sight when they bloom in late winter to early spring, sometimes while the
ground is still covered with snow. Different varieties of the hellebore plant
offer a range of flower colors, from white to black. One of the earliest blooms
spotted in many areas, nodding hellebore flowers are often fragrant and
long-lasting.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Growing hellebores is a worthwhile
task for the gardener. Aside from lovely and unusual flowers, the hellebore
plant has attractive green foliage that is aesthetically pleasing in the
landscape. Once established, hellebore care is minimal. This herbaceous or
evergreen perennial is disliked by deer and other animal pests prone to munching
on plants. All parts of the hellebore plant are poisonous, so take care to keep
children and pets away.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4VB9VsPU1oJon2F8f9hwFn9mNO8UuSWgdVTFFLgz4dGu-H1Qtf3W1yj-SfIEaj3trAOhbKOvkixeI-S5uE92DI3QX6-w70jx-sEgYqGwFIiTym0U5rchf7uKNW8mw-dg8VoHe8zyo19g/s1600/hellebore7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="283" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4VB9VsPU1oJon2F8f9hwFn9mNO8UuSWgdVTFFLgz4dGu-H1Qtf3W1yj-SfIEaj3trAOhbKOvkixeI-S5uE92DI3QX6-w70jx-sEgYqGwFIiTym0U5rchf7uKNW8mw-dg8VoHe8zyo19g/s320/hellebore7.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 18.0pt;">Tips
for Growing Hellebores</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">When planting from seed or division,
place the hellebore into well-draining, organic soil in a filtered sun or shady
location. The hellebore plant will return for many years; make sure the space
will accommodate growth and has proper sunlight. Hellebores need no more than a
few hours of dappled light and grow successfully in shady areas. Plant the
hellebore under deciduous trees or scattered through a woodland
garden or shaded natural area</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Soaking the soil in which the
hellebore is growing helps the hellebore plant to look its best. Hellebore care
includes removal of older leaves when they appear damaged. Care for hellebores
should also include careful fertilization. Too much nitrogen may result in lush
foliage and a shortage of blooms.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Plant hellebore seeds in the fall. A
60-day moist chilling period is needed when planting seeds of the hellebore
plant. Planting seed in fall allows this to happen naturally in areas with cold
winters. Wait three to four years for blooms on young plants grown from
seed. Divide overgrown clumps in spring, after flowering or in autumn.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 18.0pt;">Types
of Hellebores</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">While many varieties of hellebores
exist, <i>Helleborus orientalis</i>, the Lenten Rose, is among the earliest of
winter bloomers and offers the widest selection of colors.</span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Helleborus foetidus</span></i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">, called the stinking, bear foot or bear paw hellebore,
offers flowers in a pastel shade of green and has an unusual fragrance disliked
by some; consequently it may be referred to as stinking. Foliage of the bear
foot hellebore is segmented and serrated, sometimes turning to deep red in cold
weather, when it is highly ornamental. Flowers may be edged in the deep red to
burgundy color. This hellebore plant prefers more sun than its oriental
counterparts.</span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Helleborus niger</span></i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">, the Christmas Rose, features 3-inch blooms of the purest
white. Many hybrids of hellebores offer a range of flower colors, colors often
change as they mature.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Hellebore care is simple and
worthwhile. Plant a variety of hellebores in your garden in the shade for a
lovely spring flower.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Article By Becca Badgett<br />
</span></div>
Color Burst Landscapes Bloomin' Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04163913840464530590noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1627058887610218926.post-75820352984848993742016-02-15T12:40:00.000-08:002019-03-11T04:51:59.255-07:00Early Bloomers<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRGw8NveAZdKgfj2QkRiewNAEd9IcdmpGBL0jck0n6NMiUG_luI1zqvPnl9CEpkuIF2Psb63SShEYWPvWT_P4w0q7Vi9eDuBm2Bw88_me46apPWELzpZaXdS56-blEj9RpyqZu2CUYj_w/s1600/2016-02-09_13-52-08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="172" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRGw8NveAZdKgfj2QkRiewNAEd9IcdmpGBL0jck0n6NMiUG_luI1zqvPnl9CEpkuIF2Psb63SShEYWPvWT_P4w0q7Vi9eDuBm2Bw88_me46apPWELzpZaXdS56-blEj9RpyqZu2CUYj_w/s400/2016-02-09_13-52-08.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">I am sure most of us are now starting to daydream of sunshiny days and the beautiful
blooms that spring will be sure to bring. We all know that daffodils and tulips
are the first show stoppers of spring but here are just a few more of our
favorite early bloomers which thrive in Middle Tennessee, and are a sure sign
the springtime is on the way.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"><a href="http://www.riverbendnurseries.com/wp-content/uploads/forsythia.jpg"><span style="color: blue;"><br /></span></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Forsythia, also known as golden bells:</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuvtCoeRIOGgxBdZ9NbNdclrVAzTh4m_XC2QDsBDOZjEAkdGxXbQ8e_UGbjnxTYCn2qF3UnoiRKfZmvFu5kWReKeVRRvXGxDylpYR5gd2uDhntg2n4N9Em4JXK_IbNuknK4hiHaNUaMac/s1600/forsythia-plant-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuvtCoeRIOGgxBdZ9NbNdclrVAzTh4m_XC2QDsBDOZjEAkdGxXbQ8e_UGbjnxTYCn2qF3UnoiRKfZmvFu5kWReKeVRRvXGxDylpYR5gd2uDhntg2n4N9Em4JXK_IbNuknK4hiHaNUaMac/s320/forsythia-plant-4.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">
</span>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">This beautiful shrub comes in many
varieties, but they all have this in common: they are one of the earliest
blooming shrubs in our area and they produce beautiful, long, graceful stems of
sweet yellow flowers. Forsythia loves to be planted in sunshine! They are hardy
shrubs that require little maintenance. Some varieties of forsythia can grow
large (unless you pick up a type such as ‘Gold Tide,’ which is a ground cover
forsythia that gets to be about 2 feet tall and 5 feet wide), but all types can
be easily pruned. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Flowering Quince : </span>
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKht0xy-SN8QP4lc0_-qjduO2nh0zAtBCVB2dqpLEJJzUu-bRY7IT7kwbBBhnzl9nF580CT0GbFsTP2g9d7G-MPfdgWQJwje_CNXk2ghTvqrwP8rDZXS3cUfFdwdNij9jhP6CmZa5GetI/s1600/Japanese-Dwarf-Flowering-Quince.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKht0xy-SN8QP4lc0_-qjduO2nh0zAtBCVB2dqpLEJJzUu-bRY7IT7kwbBBhnzl9nF580CT0GbFsTP2g9d7G-MPfdgWQJwje_CNXk2ghTvqrwP8rDZXS3cUfFdwdNij9jhP6CmZa5GetI/s320/Japanese-Dwarf-Flowering-Quince.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Another early springtime bloomer,
Flowering Quince produces show stopping blooms of red, pink, white, or orange
(depending on variety). Like Forsythia, they love sunshine and do best with 6-8
hours of direct sunlight daily. Their gorgeous blooms last typically up to two
weeks; by cutting flowering stems and bringing them indoors, you enjoy the
bloom period even more. Sizes vary with each variety, from smaller ones reaching
3 feet high by 3 feet wide at maturity, up to 10 feet high and wide at
maturity. Simple pruning can be done once a year to keep Flowering Quince at
the appropriate size for your yard.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi05tu8vwrFdjSHiMa6iVdMjO7SG2oX3yMunjQUYAP9Am7oJYZVGbSYgFF9w_KycuvEqjXFtOOVKUkOjrLV-59cqEGWyW1p8NnV-CneEL_kcSZGm5ErNpWflgLv_7VNuxdJfbNZaCLsGys/s1600/yoshino-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi05tu8vwrFdjSHiMa6iVdMjO7SG2oX3yMunjQUYAP9Am7oJYZVGbSYgFF9w_KycuvEqjXFtOOVKUkOjrLV-59cqEGWyW1p8NnV-CneEL_kcSZGm5ErNpWflgLv_7VNuxdJfbNZaCLsGys/s320/yoshino-5.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Yoshino and Kwanzan Cherry Trees:</span>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">About a month before dogwoods and
redbuds are beginning to bloom, Yoshino and Kwanzan cherry trees begin to bloom
in our area, lighting up landscapes all around Middle Tennessee with beautiful
clusters of delicate pink to light pink blooms (Kwanzan is known for its
brighter pink blooms, whereas Yoshino cherry trees boast the light pink/ almost
white buds). As far as early spring blooming trees, you just cannot beat
flowering cherry trees. Their name can be confusing, as they are not actual
fruit producing cherry trees. These trees enjoy full sun, and at maturity, they
are not huge (15-25 feet height and spread), so they can make for a great
ornamental tree in your garden.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Be on the lookout for these amazing beauties, and rest assure spring is indeed on its way! </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">~Gretta "Green Thumb" </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"><i><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Plant info <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">cou<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">rtesy of</span></span> Riverben<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">d Nursery</span></span></i></span></div>
Color Burst Landscapes Bloomin' Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04163913840464530590noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1627058887610218926.post-77483399624130501952016-02-05T07:24:00.000-08:002016-02-05T07:24:57.430-08:00The Basics- Rhododendrons and Azaleas<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9HKAZi_2YNEFqeCYIjcTL7vPVGNcimLspy4_3lDr6o4R9KOOxMMIND09eUfz47Bcsomkqusb0hdJ_nxp5AcTKWJMM3NKIt6R3tsVxAX5MFmY_3SARMyk-eQkiCZrg2xr3jgc3dqMNNsU/s1600/azalea-m.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9HKAZi_2YNEFqeCYIjcTL7vPVGNcimLspy4_3lDr6o4R9KOOxMMIND09eUfz47Bcsomkqusb0hdJ_nxp5AcTKWJMM3NKIt6R3tsVxAX5MFmY_3SARMyk-eQkiCZrg2xr3jgc3dqMNNsU/s320/azalea-m.jpg" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">R</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">hododendrons
and azaleas are arguably the South’s favorite shrubs. Many people think of them
as entirely different plants, but they both belong to the genus Rhododendron. One
difference between the two groups is obvious: rhododendrons generally have much
larger leaves. Also, rhododendron flowers are bell shaped and have ten or more
stamens, while azalea blooms are typically funnel shaped and have five stamens.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Rhododendrons generally do better in
the Upper and Middle South, though a number of selections thrive in the Lower
South. Azaleas, however, are more accommodating; with the necessary
attention to soil, light, and proper selection, they can be grown throughout
the South.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Rhododendrons and azaleas have much
the same basic requirements for soil and water. They need acid, well-drained,
organically enriched soil that should neither get too dry nor remain soggy.
Planting in heavy clay is a no-no: root rot often ensues, indicated by
yellowing, wilting foliage and collapse of the plant. Planting in limy,
alkaline soil is another mistake; lack of iron quickly results in chlorosis
(yellow leaves with green veins). </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Plant azaleas and rhododendrons with
the top of the root ball slightly above soil level. Don’t cultivate around
these plants, as they have shallow roots. Because they absorb water through
their foliage, wet both the leaves and root zone when you water. Overhead watering
with sprinklers works well, but to prevent fungal diseases do this in morning
so that leaves dry by afternoon. Avoid drip irrigation―it doesn’t wet the root
system uniformly.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">In spring, just after the blooms
fade, apply mulch and fertilize with a controlled-release, acid-forming
fertilizer such as cottonseed meal or commercial azalea/camellia food. Do not
mulch in fall; this will hold heat in the soil and delay the onset of dormancy,
increasing the chances of winter damage. And don’t fertilize <i>before</i>
bloom―you’ll encourage leafy growth at the wrong time.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">The sun tolerance of azaleas and
rhododendrons varies by species and selection. In general, most types prefer
the partial sun or filtered shade beneath tall trees. The east and north sides
of the house are better locations than the west and south. Too much sun
bleaches or burns the leaves; too little results in lanky plants that don’t
bloom.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Pruning rhododendrons is simple―just
follow these general guidelines. Tip-pinch young plants to make them bushy;
prune older, leggy plants to restore shape by cutting back to a side branch,
leaf whorl, or cluster of latent buds. Do any extensive pruning in late winter
or early spring. Pruning at this time will sacrifice some flower buds, but the
plant’s energies will be diverted to latent growth buds, which will then be
ready to push out their new growth early in the growing season. You can do some
shaping while plants are in bloom; use cut branches in arrangements. To prevent
seed formation, which can reduce next year’s bloom, clip or break off spent
flower trusses, taking care not to damage growth buds at base of each truss.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Evergreen azaleas are dense, usually
shapely plants; heading back the occasional wayward branch restores symmetry.
To keep bushes compact, tip-pinch frequently, starting after flowering ends and
continuing until mid-June. Prune deciduous azaleas while they are dormant and
leafless. You don’t have to prune azaleas as carefully as you do rhododendrons―the
leaves are fairly evenly spaced along the branches, with a bud at base of each
leaf, so new growth will sprout from almost anywhere you cut (in either bare or
leafy wood).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"><i>Info Courtesy of Southern Living http://www.southernliving.com/home-garden/gardens/azalea-plants</i></span></div>
Color Burst Landscapes Bloomin' Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04163913840464530590noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1627058887610218926.post-82419221641931583002016-01-26T11:30:00.000-08:002016-01-26T11:30:36.549-08:00Early Bulb Pop-Ups<!--[if !mso]>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrsOFLgu8M-Ve6SLmht0FL1ypc1pGXw1JHsASs_etBOOoU_wHdMNEl-sBxv3Tb1P8BDATxLSCgdzMX8yGNetoY4gSvWDfq76D4pD2s9dEAv2i1wuKYzMGgovWjYmB5Z9RDALfdh12DQVA/s1600/150302-124635-searching-daffodils.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrsOFLgu8M-Ve6SLmht0FL1ypc1pGXw1JHsASs_etBOOoU_wHdMNEl-sBxv3Tb1P8BDATxLSCgdzMX8yGNetoY4gSvWDfq76D4pD2s9dEAv2i1wuKYzMGgovWjYmB5Z9RDALfdh12DQVA/s320/150302-124635-searching-daffodils.jpg" width="320" /></a><span lang="en-US" style="language: en-US; mso-ansi-language: en-US; mso-ligatures: none;">As we have seen over the past few months, winter has had a fickle mind this year. With the very mild start into the winter months, many of you might have noticed bulbs coming up.<br />
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While it is unnatural for Spring bulbs to send up their shoots before the New Year, don’t be alarmed. A really cold month early in the season followed by a very warm stretch can trigger flower stem extension a month ahead of the normal time, but there's a lot of antifreeze in these plants so they can survive just fine with their leaves above ground over winter. And, more importantly, flower stem development occurs independently of the leaves.<br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
Most bulbs, like daffodils and tulips, need at least 10 weeks of cold temperatures before they shoot that flower stem up. And the bulbs that bloom the latest in nature, like the big ornamental alliums, take even longer.<br />
<br />
So everyone who has greenery up already has no need to worry, and don’t do anything to try and 'help' the bulbs. They may bloom a month earlier than usual, or they may bloom pretty much on schedule if it takes the soil an especially long time to warm up in the Spring, but they should bloom just fine. The leaves are tough and the flowers are still safe inside the bulbs. <br />
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Just warn people especially not to cover them with a lot of any kind of mulch to try and protect them. They don't need any help, and frozen mulch can do a lot more damage to emerging flowers than weird weather ever could.</span></div>
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Color Burst Landscapes Bloomin' Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04163913840464530590noreply@blogger.com0